Tag: Chikankari stitches

About Bakhia work in Chikankari

Bakhia work is also known “Bakhia” or shadow work. Here the work is done from the back, the stitches completely covering the design in Herringbone style. The shadow of the thread is seen through the cloth on the front side. To give a richer appearance, the designs are produced with tiny backstitches on the right side over the shadow. A similar effect is created by cutting out tiny flowers and leaves in the same material as the basic fabric and then applying them on the back side. The work is done so dexterously that the turned in edges of the cut pieces are scarcely visible from the front of the work.

Two types of Bakhia work.

(A) Ulta Bakhia: The buoys lie on the converse of the fabric underneath the theme. The straightforward muslin gets to be murky and gives a delightful impact of light and shade.

(B) Sidha Bakhia: Satin join with confusing of individual strings. The buoys of string lie on the surface of the fabric. This is utilized to fill the structures and there is no light or shade impact.


What is Chikankari Work?

The word chikan is most likely derived from the Persian word `chikin’ or `chikeen’ which implies a sort of weaved fabric. This workmanship has its own particular imperial essentialness rising above from Mughal Period to the time of Oudh Nawabs later sprouting as a design driven type of needle art perceived world over today. It is polished just in Lucknow and not recreated world over.

It has 32 stitches on comforts of Chikankari in different outlines done significantly by ladies artisans. Fastens include Tepchi, Bakhiya, Murri, Katai, Phanda, Jaali, Hath Kati, Pechni, Ghas Patti , Keel kangan and so on . No single gathering of artisans ace more than 4 – 5 fastens, thus it needs to move to different gathering of artisans to finish an item. The high fashion society of today has propelled the famous style planners all around, to meld the specialty of Zardozi, Kamdani, Aari with chikan dress to be valued by exceptionally refined aesthetic tastes. This is the main specialty sold after thorough various washes precluding any shrinkage and shading dying.

Types of Chikankari Stitches

The patterns and effects created depend on the stitches and the thicknesses of the strings utilized. A portion of the fastens incorporate backstitch, chain line and hemstitch. The outcome is an open work design, jali (trim) or shadow-work. Regularly the embroiderer makes network like segments by utilizing a needle to separate strings in the ground fabric, and after that working around the spaces.

There are 32 stitches in chikankari embroidery.

1) Tepchi
2) Bakhia
3) Phool
4) Zanjeera
5) Katau
6) Rahet
7) Banarsi
8) Phanda
9) Jaali
10) Darz
11) Bijli
12) Ghaas Patti
13) Chana Patti
14) Balda
15) Makra
16) Kauri
17) Hathkati
18) Banjkali
19) Karan
20) Kapkapi
21) Chasm-e-bulbul
22) TajMahal
23) Kangan
24) Dhaniya
25) Rozan
26) Sidhaul
27) Dhaniya Patti
28) Meharki
29) Ulti Bakhia
30) Pechni
31) Murri
32) Keel Kanga.

10 basic Stitches in Chikankari Embroidery

  1. Tepchi is a long running or darning fasten worked with six strands on the right half of the fabric assumed control four strings and grabbing one. Therefore, a line is framed. It is utilized mainly as a premise for further stitchery and at times to frame a straightforward shape.
  2. Bakhiya, turn around or shadow fasten in chikan work is done from the wrong side of the fabric and the configuration is rendered in the herringbone style. The shadow of the string is seen through the material on the right side.
  3. Hool is a fine withdrew eyelet join. In this, a gap is punched in the fabric and the strings are prodded separated. It is then held by little straight join all round and worked with one string on the right half of the fabric. It can be worked with six strings and frequently shapes the focal point of a blossom.
  4. Zanzeera is a little chain fasten worked with one string on the right half of the fabric. Being greatly fine, it is utilized to at last diagram the leaf or petal shapes after one or more frameworks have as of now been worked.
  5. Rahet is a stem fasten worked with six strings on the wrong side of the fabric. It shapes a strong line of back fasten on the right half of the fabric and is infrequently utilized as a part of its straightforward frame yet is regular in the twofold type of dohra bakhiya as an illustrating join.
  6. Banarsi fasten has no European equal and is a turned line worked with six strings on the right half of the fabric. Working from the privilege crosswise over around five strings a little join is assumed control around two strings vertically. The needle is reinserted most of the way along and underneath the level join shaped and is taken out around two strings vertically on the privilege over the past line.
  7. Khatau is like Bakhia, yet better and is a type of applique. In Khatau, the outline is set up on calico material. That is set over the surface of the last fabric and afterward paisley and flower examples are sewed on to it.
  8. Phanda and Murri are the types of fastens used to weave the focal point of the blossoms in conventional chikan work themes. They are regularly French bunches, with murri being rice-molded and phanda millet-formed.
  9. Jali fasten is the one where the string is never drawn through the fabric, guaranteeing that the back part of the piece of clothing looks as perfect as the front. The twist and weft strings are painstakingly drawn separated and moment buttonhole fastens are embedded into the material.
  10. Turpai and Darzdari are likewise huge fastens in chikan work. Turpai ought to have an impact of a dainty string. Darzdari have a few assortments, the well known ones are Kohidarz, Kamal darz, Shankarpara darz, Muchii and Singbhada darz.