Bakhia work is also known “Bakhia” or shadow work. Here the work is done from the back, the stitches completely covering the design in Herringbone style. The shadow of the thread is seen through the cloth on the front side. To give a richer appearance, the designs are produced with tiny backstitches on the right side over the shadow. A similar effect is created by cutting out tiny flowers and leaves in the same material as the basic fabric and then applying them on the back side. The work is done so dexterously that the turned in edges of the cut pieces are scarcely visible from the front of the work.
Two types of Bakhia work.
(A) Ulta Bakhia: The buoys lie on the converse of the fabric underneath the theme. The straightforward muslin gets to be murky and gives a delightful impact of light and shade.
(B) Sidha Bakhia: Satin join with confusing of individual strings. The buoys of string lie on the surface of the fabric. This is utilized to fill the structures and there is no light or shade impact.
The word chikan is most likely derived from the Persian word `chikin’ or `chikeen’ which implies a sort of weaved fabric. This workmanship has its own particular imperial essentialness rising above from Mughal Period to the time of Oudh Nawabs later sprouting as a design driven type of needle art perceived world over today. It is polished just in Lucknow and not recreated world over.
It has 32 stitches on comforts of Chikankari in different outlines done significantly by ladies artisans. Fastens include Tepchi, Bakhiya, Murri, Katai, Phanda, Jaali, Hath Kati, Pechni, Ghas Patti , Keel kangan and so on . No single gathering of artisans ace more than 4 – 5 fastens, thus it needs to move to different gathering of artisans to finish an item. The high fashion society of today has propelled the famous style planners all around, to meld the specialty of Zardozi, Kamdani, Aari with chikan dress to be valued by exceptionally refined aesthetic tastes. This is the main specialty sold after thorough various washes precluding any shrinkage and shading dying.
The patterns and effects created depend on the stitches and the thicknesses of the strings utilized. A portion of the fastens incorporate backstitch, chain line and hemstitch. The outcome is an open work design, jali (trim) or shadow-work. Regularly the embroiderer makes network like segments by utilizing a needle to separate strings in the ground fabric, and after that working around the spaces.
There are 32 stitches in chikankari embroidery.
12) Ghaas Patti
13) Chana Patti
27) Dhaniya Patti
29) Ulti Bakhia
32) Keel Kanga.